Sleeping Under Canvas: Bell Tents, Bothies and Desert Camps Around the World
Admin | 06 Sep 2026
Admin | 06 Sep 2026
There's a thing that happens when someone stays in one of our bell tents for the first time. They walk in, stop, and look up. Canvas does that. A nylon tent is a piece of equipment and you're aware of it the whole time you're inside. Canvas is a room, and your brain files it differently within about four seconds.
We've had a lot of conversations about this round the fire, usually with people who camp a fair bit and have opinions, and it turns out most of the world arrived at more or less the same answer independently. A pole, a circle, canvas, fire outside. The details change enormously. The idea barely changes at all.
So this is a wander through the different versions of it. Partly because it's interesting, and partly because people ask us what a bell tent actually is roughly once a week.
Ours are 5 metre bell tents. One central pole, one shorter pole at the door, a circle of heavy canvas pegged out, and a zip-in groundsheet so nothing walks in overnight.
Inside there's a king size bed made up with proper linen, and enough floor left over that you can stand up, get dressed and move about without performing gymnastics. That's the bit that surprises people. A 5 metre circle is a lot more space than the number suggests. Then the kit to actually live: pots, pans, plates, cutlery, gas stove, a lamp, a cool box, and a pioneer grill for cooking over the fire outside. You bring a towel and a toothbrush.
Canvas behaves differently to nylon in ways that matter. It breathes, so you don't wake up in a condensation cave. It holds temperature better at both ends, cooler in afternoon sun and warmer at four in the morning. And it takes weather without the flapping and slapping that keeps you awake in a lightweight tent. The trade-off is weight. Nobody is carrying one of these up a hill. It stays where it's put, which is why glamping sites use them and backpackers don't.

The Central Asian answer, and the oldest properly engineered one. A lattice wall, roof poles going into a central ring, felt or canvas over the top.
The difference from a bell tent is the vertical wall. A bell tent's canvas slopes from the middle, so the usable space shrinks as you go outwards. A yurt has straight walls for the first metre or so, which means you can put furniture against the edge and stand up anywhere in it. That's why yurts feel like buildings and bell tents feel like tents. Herding families moved them seasonally for centuries and they'll take a Mongolian winter, which is not something you'd claim for anything we own.

The tipi is the North American version, conical, and the important feature is that it was designed around an indoor fire. Smoke flaps at the top, adjustable to the wind. Everything else follows from that.
The Sami lavvu across northern Scandinavia is the same idea reached separately, lower and wider to sit better under Arctic wind. Both of them are genuinely built for fire inside, which is worth stating plainly because people occasionally get ideas about their bell tent. Do not have a fire in your bell tent. There is a fire pit outside your bell tent, which is where fire goes.

The colonial-era East African setup, which has since turned into most of what gets sold as luxury camping worldwide. Rectangular, big, usually on a raised timber deck, often with a bathroom section at the back.
These are the ones that stretch the definition. There's a version of a safari tent with air conditioning, a minibar and a plunge pool, at which point the canvas is decorative and you're in a hotel with soft walls. No judgement, it's a lovely way to be in a hot place, but it's a different activity to the one we're in.
There is no hotel corridor between you and the landscape when you sleep under canvas. Step outside to fresh air, open skies and the quiet beauty of a countryside morning.

Not canvas, but they belong in the list because they solve the same problem.
A Scottish bothy is a stone building left unlocked for anyone walking past. No booking, no fee, no facilities, a roof and usually a fireplace. The Norwegian and Alpine hut networks are the organised version. They're what a lot of our guests use in winter when they want to be out but don't want to be in a tent in February.

Then the dry-country version, which for a lot of people is the one that lands hardest.
Camps in the Thar Desert in Rajasthan are structurally the closest thing to what we do, just scaled up and dropped somewhere far stranger. Canvas, a fire, food cooked over it, and dunes instead of a meadow. Two things make them different in practice. One is temperature swing. It can be pleasantly warm in the afternoon and genuinely cold by two in the morning, in a way northern European camping never quite prepares you for. The other is the sky. There's nothing out there generating light for a very long way, and the Milky Way turns up as an actual band across the sky rather than something you have to squint for. If you've enjoyed a clear night in our field, that's the same experience with the volume turned up considerably.
Most people reach them as part of a longer Rajasthan trip rather than as a standalone thing. Operators running luxury private tours of India build a night or two of desert camping into wider routes that take in the forts and the cities, which is a sensible way round it. One night on the dunes is memorable. Four is a commitment.
Worth a separate mention because it's the version people find hardest to picture.
The one that keeps coming up in conversation here is a camp night with the elephants at a sanctuary in Jaipur, where you stay over at the site rather than doing an afternoon visit. It's run by a family from a mahout background, it takes rescued elephants, and it's had a no-riding rule since it opened. The appeal, from what people describe, is the ordinary part rather than the dramatic part. Being there in the evening and the early morning when nothing is being performed for anybody.
That's a fairly good description of why anyone camps anywhere, in fairness.
Strip away the differences and you get the same three things every time.
A soft wall, which changes how sound arrives and how you sleep. A fire, which changes what an evening is for. And no reason to look at a screen, which is the one that takes about a day and a half to take hold and is the reason most people book a second night.
Our version is 8 acres of Kent meadow, thirty two pitches, no cars, no wifi and no sockets. The equipment list is different everywhere else. The point is not.
A circular canvas tent held up by one central pole, with a shorter pole at the doorway. Ours are 5 metres across with a zip-in groundsheet. The canvas breathes better than nylon, holds temperature better and is much quieter in wind.
More than the number suggests. There's a king size bed made up with linen and still enough floor to stand, dress and move around properly. Headroom is full height in the middle and drops towards the edges.
A yurt has straight vertical walls for the first metre or so, so you keep usable space right to the edge and can put furniture against the wall. A bell tent slopes from the centre. Yurts feel more like a room, bell tents more like a tent.
No. Tipis and lavvus were designed for an inside fire with smoke flaps at the top. Bell tents were not. Every pitch here has its own fire pit outside, which is where the fire goes.
King size bed with fresh linen, pots, pans, plates, cutlery, a gas stove, a lamp, a cool box and a pioneer grill for cooking over the fire. Bring your own towels and toiletries.
It's somewhere in the middle and we're relaxed about that. You're still off-grid, still cooking outside, still with no electricity and no wifi, and still in the same field as everyone in tents. What you're skipping is packing and pitching your own kit.
It handles both ends better. Cooler under afternoon sun, warmer in the early hours, and far less condensation because it breathes. It's still a tent though, so bring a decent sleeping bag in spring and autumn.
Large rectangular canvas tents, usually on a raised deck and often with a bathroom section. They're the format most luxury camping abroad uses. Some versions have so much built in that the canvas is more or less decorative.
An unlocked stone shelter, mostly in Scotland, free for anyone walking past to use. No booking and no facilities beyond a roof and often a fireplace. A lot of UK campers use bothies and mountain huts through winter when tents are less appealing.
The structure is similar, canvas and a fire, but the temperature swing is much bigger and the night sky is far darker. Warm afternoons and genuinely cold nights, and a Milky Way you can see without effort.